Welcome to Canigou Country in French Catalonia!

The land of snow-capped peaks and fragrant peach groves, not forgetting the endless vineyards, of course ...

French Catalonia

Location

This is Departement 66 of the 95 departements or counties in France. Known as Les Pyrenees-Orientales (P-O) - the Eastern Pyrenees. This is the glorious southernmost tip of France, bordered by the departement of the Aude (11) to the north, by the Mediterranean to the east, by Spanish Catalonia to the south and by the principality of Andorra to the west.

The area is referred to as Roussillon (as in the Roussillon segment of Languedoc-Roussillon, the region) or French Catalonia.

click on any of the maps for a full size image

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Size

Roussillon covers an approximate area of 4,143 km2, equal to an amazing 1,600 square miles, which puts it on a par with the English county of Kent! However, in terms of population, it is one of the smallest provinces in France with just 400,000 people. Roughly one third is concentrated in Perpignan - the administrative 'capital' city whilst Prades and Ceret, the two sub-administrative towns, are home to around 7,000 and 7,500 inhabitants respectively.

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Accessibility

The P-O offers you multiple ways of reaching its sunny shores.

Flying - No-frills airline Ryanair operates a fast, daily service into Perpignan Rivesaltes Airport from London Stansted in Essex (flight time just over 1 hour). The airport lies just 5 km north of Perpignan, adjacent to the route nationale and a mere 20 minutes from the Mediterranean.

Other options include Carcassonne Airport in the Aude (11) and also Gerona/Barcelona Airports over the border (only around 2/2.5 hours away from Perpignan). Note that Gerona Airport is expanding fast with flights ex Glasgow, Bournemouth and Dublin courtesy of Ryanair, plus a new Birmingham departure planned for the end of October 2002. Spacious, air-conditioned and benefiting from free parking, Gerona is a good alternative to Perpignan.

Air France  operates up to 4 flights per day into Perpignan via Paris Orly, departing from a selection of regional and major airports in the UK.

Rail - You can hop on Eurostar at Waterloo and be sitting in the centre of Perpignan, aperitif in hand, some 12 hours later! Eurostar connects with the efficient TGV via Lille or Paris and in terms of seeing the splendour of France roll by as you sit back and relax, a trip by rail is hard to beat.

Both the RailEurope and SNCF sites have timetables and fares

NB. Rail Europe also organises holiday package deals through French Travel Service

Driving - Probably the best way to fully appreciate the magnitude of the Hexagon it to drive it from north to south. Of course, a drive can take as long as you wish, but speaking from personal experience the 1,000 odd kms to Perpignan ex Calais can be done in 2 days at a fairly fast pace or rather more leisurely over 3. The network of motorways/routes nationales stretching all the way down into Roussillon is superb and chain hotels are plentiful. Contrary to popular belief, tolls are not prohibitive - in fact vast stretches of motorway are free and can offer spectacular scenery. Once in the P-O distances can be covered quite quickly (with the exception of mountain roads, of course, where one rarely gets above 50 km/h).

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Accommodation

If you are looking for good-quality bed & breakfast or hotel accommodation during your stay here, please do not hesitate to contact me on fiona@canigoucountry.com. Equally, if you would like me to make the booking on your behalf, please get in touch. I am currently building up a dossier of reputable contacts across the P-O.

Mas Garrigues is a lovely vacation rental home, with a swimming pool, just outside of Ille-sur-Tet near Perpignan.

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Climate

In 2003 the P-O enjoyed exceptional temperatures, a month ahead of themselves from May onwards. As we know, climatic conditions throughout the world are changing and the South of France is no exception. Perpignan actually saw snow in January 2003 - a very rare phenomenon!

Generally speaking, Roussillon enjoys long, hot summers and relatively short, cold winters. Thus from April through to mid-October, the climate gets progressively hotter - peaking in July/August normally. Late October to March can be wet 'n' windy and cold. Unlike the UK however, days are usually bright with sunshine whatever the temperature. Of course, one should not forget the presence of the Pyrenees, ensuring ample rainfall and therefore lush vegetation together with the fact that temperatures vary considerably from valley to valley and between the coast/inland and mountains, particularly in Winter. Easter is normally the weather turning point and usually the very first cargolade (snail barbecue!) takes place at this time to honour the fine weather to come.

5-day forecast for Perpignan in English
5-day forecast for Perpignan in French

... including La Tramontane

Neither should we omit the famous Pyrenean wind that gusts here, dubbed la Tramontane (there is also the vent marin or sea wind). La Tramontane has an important function in so far as it chases away any hint of a grey cloud lurking and thus ensures a sparkling blue sky - and for this reason it is accepted and almost revered by the Catalans. Suffice to say that this is a strong wind, whatever the season, and whilst one is often thankful for it in the Summer months, it is less welcome in the Winter!

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Land of Contrasts

Roussillon is famous for offering the best of all worlds: Choose from breathtaking mountain locations where the air is pure enough to drink almost, red-roofed villages and small market towns of the verdant hinterland set in amongst fragrant peach groves, rolling cherry orchards and cooling lakes - or be tempted by the expansive coastline gently washed by the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean. Then, of course, there's cosmopolitan Perpignan, plus both Spain and Andorra just waiting to be explored.

This is a land so rich that centuries of history beginning with Tautavel Man right through to Picasso linger round every corner. A land of bright sunshine, pure mountain air and healing waters. A land of diverse attractions and activities, fine wine and succulent food - all set against the majestic mountain backdrop of Le Canigou.

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Choose your Area

Looking at a map, the P-O can be divided up into 6 areas: the coastal strip stretching south from Port-Bacares to Cerbere, the mountains to the west, the 3 valleys with their respective rivers running through them (Agly/Tet/Tech) and the capital city of Perpignan. Wherever you choose, the rest of French Catalonia is always within your reach.

The Coastal Strip

This divides into the Cote Radieuse (Port-Bacares to Argeles-sur-Mer) and the Cote Vermeille (Argeles-sur-Mer to Cerbere). The former consists of miles of sandy beaches (180 km to be precise - the longest stretch in the whole of France - with the majority flying the prestigious Blue Flag) that gradually give way to stony creeks.

Some of the most popular areas are quaint Collioure (Roussillon's answer to St Tropez - with property prices to match) and family-orientated Argeles-sur-Mer. Purpose-built resorts like St Cyprien Plage merit a look, hosting a myriad of sporting activities around the bustling marina in Summer (the second largest in the Med), plus an acclaimed golf course, vibrant bars & excellent sea-food restaurants. Canet Plage, albeit close to Perpignan, is flanked by miles of sandy beach and wonderful fishermen's cottages overlooking salt lakes - home to abundant bird-life.

If you are looking for somewhere that is alive all year round then consider the villages that were around before the marinas (St Cyprien Village/Argeles Village for instance). Alternatively, there are fishing villages such as lively Banyuls-sur-Mer (home of the famous Banyuls sweet wine, also excellent for diving and thalassotherapy) and Port-Vendres (only 5 minutes from Collioure) - very much a working fishing/cruise port with a life all of its own, just waiting to be explored.

If your intention is to be as close to Spain as possible, then you should explore the frontier town of Cerbere and its surrounds. Located some 10 km south of Banyuls-sur-Mer at the end of a twisting but panoramic route, here you are just 3 km away from the border at Port Bou and 45 km south of Perpignan. This small seaside resort (pop 1,500), complete with international train station, remains relatively undiscovered, yet boasts first class diving in the Cerbere-Banyuls Natural Marine Reserve which spans some 1,600 acres of the sea-bed.

If you don't necessarily want the hustle and bustle of living on the coast in Summer, consider the benefits of going slightly inland to Elne for example - an all-year round market town with an elegant 11th century cathedral, just 10 minutes from St Cyprien.

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The Mountains

The mountains to the west divide into 2 areas: Capcir to the north and Cerdagne to the south.

Font-Romeu in Cerdagne
90 km from Perpignan

Out of a total of 9 ski resorts in the P-O, Font-Romeu is the top one, celebrating its centenary in December 2003. Situated at an altitude of 1800 metres with a total of 40 ski runs with easy access to suit all levels (downhill and cross-country ski-ing). But Font-Romeu is much more than just a ski resort - offering a plethora of high-quality leisure activities which go beyond the usual hiking, swimming and horse-riding into the realms of paragliding, pot-holing, quad-bikes, archery, golf and the list goes on. It benefits from an acclaimed microclimate and an average of 3000 hours of sunshine per year to boot. This is where sporting hopefuls and sporting professionals come to train to boost performance.

The first serious snowfall generally arrives in November/early December and
ski-ing continues well into the Spring. In 2003 the season finished on 21 April. It is worth noting that Font-Romeu together with neighbouring Pyrenees 2000 offers you guaranteed snow (thanks to some 480 snow blowers) and indeed the largest ski area in Europe capable of being supplemented by artificial snow whenever you need it.

Les Angles in Capcir
100 km from Perpignan

What began as a remote mountain village has over the past 40 years developed into a substantial village ski-resort with quite a following. Les Angles is situated at an altitude of 1650 metres with 32 ski runs to suit all levels. The resort offers both downhill ski-ing as well as plenty of ideal cross-country ski-ing on the Capcir Plateau. It also boasts excellent après-ski, an amazing Wild Animal Park (90 acres) offering you the chance to spot bears and wolves, etc in their natural mountain habitat as well as the first-ever (and now quite advanced) Snow Park created in the Pyrenees for fans of snowboarding.

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The 3 Valleys

The Agly Valley

This valley borders the Aude departement (11). Famous for the incredible find back in 1971 of Tautavel Man (the oldest cranium found in France), but wine buffs will probably remember it more easily as the Wine Valley (renamed by me) since it hosts a number of wine-producing towns and villages such as:

Rivesaltes (pop 8,000) an attractive fortified town on the banks of the River Agly with a mix of old and new properties; this is where the nationally famous Rivesaltes aperitif comes from.

Espira-de-l'Agly and Baixas (pop 2,500) are two typical Catalan villages with some beautiful properties.

Salses (pop 2,500), 15 km north of Perpignan, whose 15th century fortress marks the end of Languedoc and the beginning of Roussillon, is also worth a look. This is where the border between France and Spain used to be.

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The Tet Valley

With stunning mountain scenery from start to finish, this valley offers superb access via the efficient RN 116 that stretches between Perpignan and the far mountains at Bourg Madame (dual carriageway as far as Ille-sur-Tet).

Check out typical market towns such as Ille-sur-Tet, Toulouges or Thuir and numerous hidden villages such as Vinca, Corberes or Camelas.

Medieval Ille-sur-Tet (pop 5,000) used to welcome pilgrims on their long journey to Santiago de Compostella in Spain and lies just 25 km west of Perpignan, circa 30 minutes to the coast and 90 minutes to the ski resort of Font-Romeu.

More polished Thuir (pop 7,000) is 12 km south-west of Perpignan and successfully combines old and new - smart streets and shops host fun street events in season alongside a maze of charming, narrow, winding streets.

Medieval Vinca (pop 2,000) is halfway between Ille-sur-Tet and Prades and its two lakes make it ideal for fishing and watersports, whilst the hill-top village of Camelas gives you stunning views and serenity with civilisation just round the corner.

Prades (pop 7,000), 40 km west of Perpignan, is a bustling market town easily accessible on the fast RN 116 and well placed for departures all over the P-O. Famous for its classical music festival in the Summer.

Adjacent villages such as Marquixanes, Ria-Sirach and Eus (pop 400), 5 km east of Prades are also worth a look. The latter is one of the 5 prettiest villages in the P-O (there are 142 altogether in France) and reputedly the sunniest in the whole of France by virtue of its dominant south-facing hillside position over the Tet Valley.

Vernet-les-Bains (pop 1,500) sits just behind Le Canigou at an altitude of 700 metres. Approx 45 minutes drive to Perpignan airport to the east or to the ski resorts to the west. Such a splendid location sheltered from the Tramontane wind, plus high levels of sunshine equals a pleasing micro-climate - and indeed one of the healthiest climates in France. Add its ancient thermal springs and little wonder that it is one of the top French spa towns. Rudyard Kipling, who spent considerable time here, called it 'Paradise in the Pyrenees'.

Note that villages such as Canohes and Pollestres, situated within striking distance of Perpignan, are also worth a look.

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The Tech Valley

The southernmost of the 3 valleys and parallel with the border - you cannot get any closer to Spain!

Les Alberes (part of the Pyrenean mountain range) nestles away in the far eastern corner of the Tech Valley. Small Catalan villages such as St Andre,
St Genis des Fontaines, Sorede and Laroque des Alberes promise a glimpse of times past and are highly sought after.

Beyond Les Alberes, the Tech Valley opens up at Le Boulou (pop 5,000) - an important Spa town and the gateway to Spain. The fast N9 connects Le Boulou with Perpignan, 25 km north and Spain to the south (via Le Perthus - a shopper's paradise). Quiet havens can be found within striking distance at Tresserre, Banyuls des Aspres and St Jean Lasseille. Villages such as Llauro and Vives are perfect for those preferring to get away from it all, happy to access civilisation along winding mountain roads.

Moving westwards 10 km from Le Boulou, the cherry capital of the Tech Valley is Ceret (pop 7,500). Just 30 km south of Perpignan, Ceret oozes Catalan folklore (witness the impressive Festival de la Sardane) and it has a distinctly arty feel to it with cool, leafy streets frequented by Picasso, Dali et al in times gone by

Beyond Ceret lies bustling Amelie-les-Bains Palalda (pop 3,000), the most southerly spa town in the whole of France, boasting an exceptional micro-climate and offering healing waters since Roman times.

Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste (pop 1,000) at an altitude of 740 metres could be described as the end of the world. Perfect if you want to get away from it all! This is true mountain country and the area is the ninth largest in France. Again, distinctly Catalan and very historical. Just 13 km from the Spanish border.

It is worth noting that the main road running through the Tech Valley from the coast at Argeles-sur-Mer all the way to Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, albeit classified as a 'D' road, is impressive nonetheless.

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Perpignan La Catalane

Cosmopolitan in flavour, this lively, leafy city with the tranquil river Basse running through its centre (neatly separating the old town from the new), formerly the capital of Majorca, is today the capital of Roussillon.

A thriving university city, Perpignan is at the heart of the Euroregion - the triangle formed by Toulouse, Montpellier and Barcelona which means that it is increasingly set to evolve as an international business city. The high-speed TGV connection to Barcelona is planned for circa 2008 (transit time circa 45 mins) and preparations are already under way for a major new Dali Business Centre behind the existing railway station.

Also designated 'Ville d'Art et d'Histoire' - City of Art & History in 2001 as well as one of the three 'Villes de Soleil' - Sun Cities (together with Nice and Marseilles) thanks to some 320 days of sunshine per year (which also applies throughout the P-O incidentally).

3 must-see sights include the Palais des Rois de Majorque (the former palace belonging to the kings of Majorca) for panoramic views of the city, the Castillet (a landmark red brick tower - gateway to the old city and all that remains of the ramparts) now an interesting folkloric museum and the elaborate Loge de Mer (former stock exchange and maritime court) which now houses a café-restaurant on the ground floor where you can relax and watch the world go by.

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Past & Present - A brief History of Catalonia

The province of Catalonia together with the rest of Spain became part of the mighty Roman Empire around 20 BC. It traversed alternate periods of prosperity; notably during its 'Golden Age' of the Middle Ages when it controlled overseas outposts, and also periods of poverty; following the War of Spanish Succession when it lost its parliament and its language to the French. It was victorious once more following the War of Independence won by the Spanish and in the early 20th century finally achieved home rule. Whilst the Spanish Civil War of 1936-39 ultimately saw Catalonia absorbed back into Spain as 4 provinces out of the nation's 50 (Gerona, Barcelona, Tarragona & Lleida), today it enjoys autonomy once more, with Catalan being its official language.

French Catalonia was put on the map in 1276 when Perpignan became the capital of the Kings of Majorca, under James I. Roussillon remained under Spanish control until Louis XI came along in 1463 and conquered the capital making it French. Taken back by the Spanish again some 30 years later, it stayed Spanish for nearly two hundred years. However, in 1642 Louis XIII besieged the city, ousting the Spanish and subsequently Louis XIV initiated the Treaty of the Pyrenees, signed in 1659, ensuring once and for all that Roussillon would become part of the French republic (omitting the town of Llivia which remains a Spanish enclave on French territory to this day!).

Today's stance is clear: This is France with a Catalan emphasis says the slogan for the P-O penned by the Conseil General (Regional Council): L'accent Catalan de la Republique Francaise. Widely used to market all major events across the departement, it serves to promote and reinforce not only the Catalan language, but Catalan talent and Catalan pride too.

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The Catalan Presence & Pride ... Including Le Canigou

Catalan colours are blood red and bright yellow. The story goes that when the blood shed by Joffre le Poilu - the founder of the Catalan dynasty - poured onto his gleaming gold shield during battle in 878, the Catalan colours were born.  Flag courtesy of ITA's Flags of All Countries used with permission

The most visual symbol is of course the Catalan flag (red & yellow horizontal stripes) fluttering proudly throughout Roussillon, followed closely by the 100-year old Train Jaune (Yellow Train) that, come rain or shine, untiringly climbs some 1,200 km on the highest railway track in the whole of France.

Add to this the rich red soil of the ancient vineyards producing fine Catalan dry and sweet wines and the famous Grenat de Perpignan - a deep red stone set in gold and Catalan emblem since 1750. The Catalan presence deepens further with Catalan place names and street names.

The Catalan language functions across the P-O alongside French. It forms part of the school curriculum and classes are anybody who wants to learn. There are around 120,000 Catalan speakers (the majority bilingual). The Catalan media is omnipresent. The Sardane, accompanied by its Cobla (band or orchestra) is to Catalonia what the flamenco is to Andalucia.

Catalan cuisine is a delight. Take your pick of mouth-watering specialities such as Anchois Catalans (home-produced anchovies in a red & green pepper vinaigrette), Boles de Picolat (spicy meatballs in a rich olive, cinnamon & garlic sauce) and Crème Catalane (crème brulee with a difference). If you're really daring, try out l'Ollada - a hearty peasant stew complete with pigs ears and tail!

The Catalans pride themselves on their highly acclaimed rugby team from Perpignan: USAP and this is always a good topic of conversation! They are also fiercely proud of their area and its rich heritage. Being such warm people they actively seek to welcome you into the P-O, hence a special 'Open Day for New Catalans' is held every October in Perpignan which I thoroughly recommend.

'A magician among mountains' - Rudyard Kipling

Be aware that Le Canigou is probably the first thing that will be pointed out to you on arrival in the P-O! Neither the tallest (as was originally believed) nor the most striking of the Pyrenean mountain range, it is nonetheless the most potent symbol of Catalan identity in Roussillon today. Venerated as far back as 1001, Catalans still look upon it in reverence. Omnipresent throughout much of the departement, this landmark mountain seems to follow you wherever you go!

Majestically snow-capped from mid-October until Spring, what sets it apart from other mountains in the range is its height (2,784 metres or approx 9,000 feet) in relation to its location: a mere 50 km from the Mediterranean (between the Tet and Tech valleys, south-east of Prades). It is also reputed to have the steepest gradients in the whole of the French Pyrenees, thus earning it the nickname 'The Catalan Fuji Yama'.

You can choose to hike all the way or otherwise drive (4-wheel ideally)/take a jeep taxi so far, then hike for the remaining odd 90 minutes to the summit. The process of getting to the top is highly memorable and the views stunning.

Classified as a site of special interest, Le Canigou also includes the Canigou Massif - a protected nature reserve offering you numerous walking and hiking opportunities and currently benefiting from a 3 million Euro investment to further enhance and safeguard the area.

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Activities & Attractions

If you like the idea of ski-ing in the Winter and sailing in the Summer, with the opportunity to drop into Spain or Andorra whenever you fancy, then Roussillon is your area.

The list of activities and attractions is endless; suffice to say that you can see and do practically anything here in the P-O! You will always find that the tourist offices (Office de Tourisme) are well stocked with leaflets and most helpful (with varying degrees of English - a chance for you to try out your French!).

Note that Roussillon comes to life from Easter onwards starting with La Sanch on Good Friday, a dramatic 15th century penitents' procession which takes place in Perpignan and several other places. There follows a stream of infinite fetes and fiestas throughout the year celebrating everything from brown bears to the grape harvest. Festivals of music and dancing, known as Journees Catalanes or 'Catalan Days', take place in the villages - all of which forms an inherent part of Catalan life. You will come across Corridas (bullfights) too and if you like fireworks, don't miss July 14 (Bastille Day) and August 15 (Festival of the Assumption) whatever you do!

Main Summer events that centre on the capital include Les Jeudis de Perpignan - free street entertainment , Les Estivales de Perpignan - a collection of music, dance & theatre as well as Visa pour l'Image - an international celebration of press photography from all over the world. If you have a penchant for classical music, you must go to the Festival Pablo Casals in Prades - now in its 52nd year. Alternatively, if it's jazz you're looking for, head for the Festival de Jazzebre in Perpignan and surrounding areas during October.

The Festa Major St Jean is a full two weeks of merrymaking in mid-June, when the sacred Canigou takes on special spiritual significance with a famous flame ceremony reinforcing peace and fraternity amongst all Catalans. Perpignan also plays host to an impressive pyrotechnic laser show as thousands celebrate in the streets. There is no denying it: French Catalonia provides the best of everything!

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Useful Links

Useful guide to the P-O in French
English version very comprehensive

Some interesting 360 degree photos

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Property in Spanish Catalonia

I am currently developing links with an estate agent over the border - with offices in Roses, Figueres and Llanca - to offer you even more choice. If you are interested in this option, please e-mail me at fiona@canigoucountry.com for further details.

Please note that information on this website is for general guidance only. It is not exhaustive and is subject to change. Moreover, the author does not claim to offer an unbiased view of a land that she perceives as paradise.